Sweater sizes: 48/50 (52/54 – 56/58)
Different figures for sizes 52/54 and 56/58 are given in parentheses in sequence, separated by a dash. If only one number is given, it applies to all three sizes.
You will need:
- yarn (100% wool; 100 m/50 g) – 400 (450-500) g white and 500 (600-650) g black;
- 7 mm, 8 mm and 9 mm knitting needles; 8 mm circular needles, 40 cm long.
Rib: alternating 1 knit and 1 purl.
Stockinette stitch: knit rows – knit sts, purl rows – purl sts.
Garter stitch: knit sts in both knit and purl rows.
Main pattern: worked with 9 mm needles.
Row 1 = right side row: sl 1 (selvage st), 1 purl, slip 3 sts (yarn held in front), repeat from *, end with 1 purl, sl 1 (selvage st).
Row 2 = wrong side row: sl 1 (selvage st), * 1 knit, 3 purl, repeat from *, end with 1 knit, sl 1 (selvage st). Repeat rows 1 and 2 for the pattern height, pulling the yarn loosely and with even tension in front of the 3 slipped sts on the right side of the piece.
Stripe sequence for back and front: work alternating 16 rows of main pattern and 20 rows of stockinette stitch.
Stripe sequence for sleeves: work alternating 16 rows of main pattern and 14 rows of stockinette stitch.
Gauge:
- 10.5 sts x 15 rows = 10 x 10 cm, worked in stockinette stitch with 8 mm needles
- 12 sts x 18 rows = 10 x 10 cm, worked in main pattern with 9 mm needles.
Knitting the Sweater
Note! The piece is worked with 2 strands held together!
Back: Using 7 mm needles and double black yarn, cast on 63 (67-71) sts and work the bottom rib, starting with a wrong side row. After 8 cm = 13 rows from the lower edge, continue with double yarn (= 1 white + 1 black strand) on 9 mm needles in the main pattern. Work 16 rows of the main pattern, switch to 8 mm needles and continue in stockinette stitch, working every 7th and 8th st together as a knit st in row 1 = 56 (59-63) sts.
After 19 rows of stockinette stitch, in the next wrong side row increase the same number of sts as were decreased, working them out of the strands as crossed purl sts. To do this, after the 7th (4-8) st increase 1 st, then after every 7th st increase 1 more st = 63 (67-71) sts. Make these decreases and increases in every stockinette stripe to match the gauge. At a height of 45 (44-43) cm = 74 (72-70) rows, bind off 4 sts on both sides for the armholes = 55 (59-63) sts in the main pattern stripe, correspondingly 49 (52-56) sts in the stockinette stripe after the decreases.
After 23 (24-25) cm = 38 (40-42) rows from the start of the armholes, bind off the center 13 (17-21) sts for the neckline in row 5 of the main pattern stripe and finish both sides separately. To shape the neckline, bind off 2 sts once from the inner edge in row 2, then in the next knit row bind off the remaining 19 shoulder sts. Finish the second side to match.
Front: Work as for the back, but with a deeper neckline. To do this, at a height of 15 (16-17) cm = 26 (28-30) rows from the start of the armholes, bind off the center 5 (8-12) sts in row 12 of the stockinette stripe and finish both sides separately. To shape the neckline, bind off from the inner edge every 2nd row 2 times 2 sts and once 1 st = 17 shoulder sts in row 19 of the stockinette stripe. In this row increase the shoulder sts by 2, working 1 crossed purl st out of the strand after every 7th st = 19 sts. After row 8 of the main pattern stripe, bind off the 19 shoulder sts at the same height as on the back. Finish the second side to match.
Sleeves: Using 7 mm needles and double black yarn, cast on 35 (39-39) sts and work the cuff in rib, starting with a wrong side row. After 8 cm = 13 rows from the lower edge, continue with double yarn (= 1 white + 1 black strand) on 9 mm needles in the main pattern. Work 16 rows of the main pattern, switch to 8 mm needles and continue in stockinette stitch, working every 7th and 8th st together as a knit st in row 1 = 31 (35-35) sts.
Work 13 rows of the stockinette stripe. In row 3 of the stockinette stripe increase 1 st on both sides for the side slants, then increase 1 more st every 6th row 11 (10-11) more times = 59 (61-63) sts in the main pattern stripe, correspondingly 52 (54-56) sts in the stockinette stripe. Include the increased sts into the matching pattern, working only 1, respectively 2, sts at the edge in the main pattern stripes as selvage. In the stockinette stripes, make the decreases and increases that compensate for the difference in gauge as described for the back. In total, work 3 repeats of 16 rows of the main pattern and 3 repeats of 14 rows of stockinette stitch, then bind off all sts. Work the second sleeve to match.
Finishing: Pin the pieces to the schematic measurements, dampen, and let dry. Sew the shoulder and side seams. For the turtleneck collar, using double black yarn and 8 mm needles, pick up 64 (70-78) sts around the neckline and work in the round in rib. After 22 cm = 32 rows, bind off loosely. Sew the sleeve seams. Set in the sleeves.
Knitting Schematic:
