Ganutell is a traditional Maltese decorative art and weaving technique. Originally, this craft was used to create intricate flowers for churches and to decorate monasteries.
The island of Malta is the birthplace of this decorative craft. Even today, exquisite flowers for monasteries are made there using the Ganutell technique. Nuns themselves continue to create this beauty. For a certain period, the technique was nearly forgotten, but thanks to the nuns, it remains alive today.
The name comes from the Italian word “canutiglia” (often known historically as cannetille), which translates to a fine spiral wire.
This type of needlework utilizes wire (or sometimes fishing line) and thread (most commonly silk). The most widespread items made using this technique are floral arrangements. However, it is also widely used to make beautiful earrings and other intricate jewelry.
In addition to threads, artisans often incorporate beads and pearls of various colors and sizes.
Historically, the term “cannetille” referred to a fine metallic thread used for elaborate goldwork embroidery. Making this thread was a labor-intensive process where metal was heated and drawn into a very thin wire. It was a long, tedious procedure. This metallic thread was used to embroider morocco leather, velvet, and broadcloth garments. The work was incredibly difficult, time-consuming, and caused severe eye strain.
Today, working in the Ganutell technique generally involves using slightly thicker wire formed into spiral coiled springs. This sturdy structural base is what helps create such beautifully shaped, resilient flowers.
In Europe, it was highly fashionable to wear jewelry made this way to balls, holidays, and important events. Naturally, they were richly decorated and often made of precious metals. Crowns, bouquets, brooches, earrings, necklaces, and rings—this is just a partial list of the jewelry created using the Ganutell technique.
Video Master-Class: Ganutell Technique Earrings
In the 1970s, silk thread flowers and wire jewelry largely fell out of everyday use, being considered old-fashioned. Such decorations remained primarily in churches. It can be said that this technique survived to our days mainly thanks to the church. Today, the art of Ganutell still exists and is steadily blossoming once again.
By the late 1990s, the technique suddenly regained popularity all over the world. Wire jewelry is back in fashion, and artisans are designing increasingly elegant pieces. The topic is highly relevant, and numerous tutorials and master classes can now be found online.
To work in this technique, you primarily need wire (which will be formed into springs and other floral elements) and multicolored threads. Beads can be added for extra decoration.
The materials are very basic. Anyone can master the technique; there is nothing overly complicated about it. Of course, it will be easier and more enjoyable for people who are diligent and patient, as the process requires a fair amount of free time and precision.
Ganutell craft generally involves two main approaches:
- The first one is the easiest and is perfect for kids and beginners. The essence is simply winding threads around a pre-shaped, flat wire frame.
- The second method is more complex. Here, alongside silk threads, beads are also strung onto the wire. All elements are twisted into the required shape depending on the sketch and design. These can be any swirls, arched forms, leaves, or intricate petals.
The core traditional method in Ganutell is combining thread with coiled wire. A straight wire is wound tightly around a spindle to create a spring. This spring is then bent into individual shapes (like a petal loop), and silk thread is woven back and forth across the grooved coiled frame. This is how the delicate flowers are assembled.
The popularity of the Ganutell technique is growing rapidly not only in Europe but all around the world. Artisans share their creative designs, post their work online, and create educational step-by-step master classes.
A huge variety of jewelry is made using the Ganutell technique, along with magnificent bouquets to decorate home interiors.
